Hey Ron, is it Grub Ex time?“ -Why, yes, yes it is! Grub preventers can actually be applied anytime mid May thru sometime in July. Mid May also covers a few nasty bugs that can affect bluegrass lawns. Remember to make sure you’re using a “Grub Preventer” not a “Grub Killer”. Preventers (kill grubs at an early stage) last all summer (about 90 days) where as the killers are a one shot application (used early or late in the season). ‘GrubEX’ by Scotts and ‘Annual Grub Beater’ by Bonide are the products you’re looking for to be used a season long grub preventers.
“I remember reading about a fungus that looks like vomit on mulch beds. I have sprayed with a fungicide, and seem to remember you saying chlorox would work as well. Should I remove it after I spray it?” -That fungus is actually a slime mold and is called “Dog Barf (Vomit) Fungus, also known as egg batter mold. Despite being commonly referred to as the dog vomit fungus, it is not a fungus at all. Slime molds can be described as yellow, slimy, multinucleate bodies called plasmodia, simply stated; a big colony of slimy blobs! The reason the yellow slime appears to move across our flower beds or lawns is because it really does. If enough moisture and food is available the slime could move up to several feet a day. As the environment around the slime mold dries out the movement stops and so to does the slime. As it dries it develops spore-producing structures and its color fades from the bright yellow to a dull earthy brown. As the new spores develop they are disbursed into the wind and the entire organism disappears. Because slime molds do not cause diseases of plants or turf, there are no pesticides available or other products recommended for their control in the landscape. The best way to get rid of slime mold is to break it up and dry it out. If the slime is still moist, simply rake it up with the substrate it is growing on and dispose of it in the garbage. Do not use fungicides NOR Chlorox to get rid of these slimy blobs!
“The bottom leaves on my container tomatoes are turning yellow. Should I be spraying for a disease?” -Not necessarily, especially if they’re growing in containers and you’re using potting soil. Chances are its just a natural thing happening. Mine will do that as well. By the time mine are 3 feet tall, I will have picked the bottom 10-12 inches of leaves off the plant. This is actually a good practice if you’re growing them in the ground, as this keeps the bottom leaves away from the soil and the possibility of soil born diseases splashing up onto the plant. Limbing them up, as well as a good mulching around the plants, can really help reduce leaf diseases (soil born) on tomatoes growing in the ground. But again, they will naturally yellow a bit on the bottoms. Just to be sure, you can always take a leaf to your local garden store for someone to see.
“Hey Ron – have you set the dates for this year’s Nursery Outlet Sale yet?” -Yes we have, but we don’t usually let the cat out of the bag until a little later. But if you’ll keep it to yourself, the sale opens to the public Sept. 18,19,20,25,26,27. We added an extra day this year. But that’s between me and you. Okay?
Readers Comments:
“For the lady with the hydrangeas that don’t bloom – too much shade will cause that to happen as well.” (-Good point! I forgot to mention they were on the SE side of the house. But you are right – that can be an issue!)
Tags: bagworms, dog barf fungus, grub preventer, tomatoes containers
